Lets address a few issues at heart here.
Why gt40 pumps? --well they power the gt40 super car and the gt500 shelby and are damn good pumps.
Alot of times people want to get rid of the pprv so they will upgrade the pumps while the hat is out anyways.
Why dual fpdm's? --well both the gt40 and gt500 have dual fpdms. wanna guess why? because a single fpdm CANNOT support 2 gt40 pumps
Can you run a modified fpdm? --YES!!!! and many elect to. google mjchip he sells modified fpdms that can make this installation simpler if you dont want to tackle
this harness.
How much hp will this support?? --Rough estimates are around 800rwhp on a mustang dyno and 900 on dynojet. These are ESTIMATES as there are few people
pushing these limits out there actually giving feedback heh. Currently of the cars ive put these in they are mostly around 600 rwhp on mustang dyno that equates
to about 650 sae dynojet. The duty cycle is at 78-80% with dual fpdm setup, fore hat, 8an lines.
Can you use your stock hat?? --Yes you can see the above write up on top left I have from another board. I tried this and had a hell of a time getting the hat not to
leak gas.
Where can you get the parts? --Junkyard is easiest place
Wheres best place to buy the pumps? Steve at tousley ford 1-800-328-9552 $150ish shipped. He can get fpdm pigtails for $25 each new!
Why gt40 pumps? --well they power the gt40 super car and the gt500 shelby and are damn good pumps.
Alot of times people want to get rid of the pprv so they will upgrade the pumps while the hat is out anyways.
Why dual fpdm's? --well both the gt40 and gt500 have dual fpdms. wanna guess why? because a single fpdm CANNOT support 2 gt40 pumps
Can you run a modified fpdm? --YES!!!! and many elect to. google mjchip he sells modified fpdms that can make this installation simpler if you dont want to tackle
this harness.
How much hp will this support?? --Rough estimates are around 800rwhp on a mustang dyno and 900 on dynojet. These are ESTIMATES as there are few people
pushing these limits out there actually giving feedback heh. Currently of the cars ive put these in they are mostly around 600 rwhp on mustang dyno that equates
to about 650 sae dynojet. The duty cycle is at 78-80% with dual fpdm setup, fore hat, 8an lines.
Can you use your stock hat?? --Yes you can see the above write up on top left I have from another board. I tried this and had a hell of a time getting the hat not to
leak gas.
Where can you get the parts? --Junkyard is easiest place
Wheres best place to buy the pumps? Steve at tousley ford 1-800-328-9552 $150ish shipped. He can get fpdm pigtails for $25 each new!
| This page contains information regarding the upgrade of the fuel system relating to the 03/04 Cobra. Includes information regarding the upgrade of the pumps to gt40 style pumps. |
This is a write up I found on another
board. Due to politics and monetary
reasons i.e. people who were vendors
on boards decided they wanted to
make lots of money off of free
information and 90% of the links I had
for information regarding the upgrades
disappeared.
board. Due to politics and monetary
reasons i.e. people who were vendors
on boards decided they wanted to
make lots of money off of free
information and 90% of the links I had
for information regarding the upgrades
disappeared.
Here is a image that someone drew up
regarding the wiring for dual fpdm's.
All totaled this setup if you can locate
the fpdm and pigtails for cheap maybe
$75 compared to the 300+ some
places are charging.
regarding the wiring for dual fpdm's.
All totaled this setup if you can locate
the fpdm and pigtails for cheap maybe
$75 compared to the 300+ some
places are charging.
I have done several of these setups
and they have proven extremely
effective at supporting horsepower
without the need for boost-a-pumps on
the 03-04 terminators.
and they have proven extremely
effective at supporting horsepower
without the need for boost-a-pumps on
the 03-04 terminators.
| Facts |
- 03 cobra has 2 fuel pumps 1 fpdm
- fpdm is capable of supporting 2 cobra pumps with no
problems to 500hp range - The stock fpdm CANNOT support 2 gt40 pumps once you
start making large amounts of hp with these cars - Stock system has a 20amp fuse
- The stock fpdm has a 2v drop across the board so at 20v it is
putting out roughly 18v - At 20 amps if the fuse does not blow the stock fpdm will go
into thermal shutdown this has been proven many times
over. After several hard pulls it will shutdown, and if this
happens mid pull under boost BOOOOOOM - the stock fpdm can power 2 gt40 pumps but not past the
20amp range - stock cobra pumps at max pull 18amps
- gt40 pumps can pull 25 amps thus causing a blown fuse
<stock is 20amp fuse> or melting down the fpdm
BOOOOOOOOOOOM - Retune is required for gt40 pumps
| False |
- stock fpdm can support 2 gt 40 pumps
- with wiring upgrade from battery stock fpdm can support 2 gt40
pumps - ONLY people selling dual fpdm setups are running these setups
To do this properly there are several things I recommend they are as follows....SUPPLIES
1. Dual fpdm setup
2. twin gt40 pumps <obviously>
3. fore precision works fuel hat can be purchased here I have recommended the single 8 out and this write up is based on it. Theres a twin 6an out available!
4. depending on if you are going to run stock rails you will need this adapter to adapt 8an lines to stock fuel rails
5. 3 - straight 8an pushlock line adapters
6. 1 - 45degree 8an pushlock line adapters
7. 1 fuel filter with 8an in/out
8. zip ties, clamps, heat shrink, fuel line release tool
9. roughly 16ft of 8an pushlock line hose. You can get away with about 15ft but get 16 and save yourself some trouble
10. 2 - relays
11. 1 - 8ga amp wiring harness kit from walmart or wherever.
12. 1 - mach 460 amp bypass wiring harness adapter <local radio shop, or best buy>
13. some 12ga wiring I reccomend about 20ft of red and 20ft of black <for + and for ->
14. fpdm from 99-04 mustang of any kind they are all the same
15. you will need 2 pigtails that plug into these fpdms - The thumbnails below are images of the pigtails. 1 is already unwrapped other is not
1. Dual fpdm setup
2. twin gt40 pumps <obviously>
3. fore precision works fuel hat can be purchased here I have recommended the single 8 out and this write up is based on it. Theres a twin 6an out available!
4. depending on if you are going to run stock rails you will need this adapter to adapt 8an lines to stock fuel rails
5. 3 - straight 8an pushlock line adapters
6. 1 - 45degree 8an pushlock line adapters
7. 1 fuel filter with 8an in/out
8. zip ties, clamps, heat shrink, fuel line release tool
9. roughly 16ft of 8an pushlock line hose. You can get away with about 15ft but get 16 and save yourself some trouble
10. 2 - relays
11. 1 - 8ga amp wiring harness kit from walmart or wherever.
12. 1 - mach 460 amp bypass wiring harness adapter <local radio shop, or best buy>
13. some 12ga wiring I reccomend about 20ft of red and 20ft of black <for + and for ->
14. fpdm from 99-04 mustang of any kind they are all the same
15. you will need 2 pigtails that plug into these fpdms - The thumbnails below are images of the pigtails. 1 is already unwrapped other is not
| Making the dual fpdm harness print off the image at the top right of this page for reference later in this thread |
********It should be known there are several different color combinations of fpdm pigtails out there. If you go by the above picture <top right> it has the correct
colors for 03 harness. Most will have different color here is break down*****************
-grey/pink is the same as brown/pink
-dg/ye wire is the same as the larger gauge pink/black striped wire
*****************unhook battery**********************
step 1. go ahead and run your 8ga amp kit wire to the back from your battery. You will connect one end to your + battery terminal and mount a 30amp fuse as
close to the battery as possible.
step 2. unloom the 2 pigtails and clip off the extra part of the ground wire as it wont be needed.
step 3. clip the 2 wires woven together about 1-2" from the connector. <grey-pink stripe, red-black stripe> these power your fuel pumps.
step 4. now we will attach the 40 feet worth of wires to these two wires. Cut about 10 feet of red 12ga wire and attach to the grey-pink wire and 10feet of black
12ga wire to the red-blackstripe wire. <make sure you slide heat shrink on the cable>
step 5. solder these connections after you have soldered them move the heat shrink over and shrink them down. Now repeat this on 2nd harness with remaining
wiring.
step 6. take the two harnesses and tie the white-red striped wires together
step 7. take the light blue orange wire and clip it off about 4" from connector and put a butt cap on it ********ONLY ON 1 HARNESS******
step 8. take the other light blue orange wire and set it aside will be using this later to tie into the amp bypass harness kit
step 9. get your relays
step 10. your dg/ye wire <ALSO CAN BE PINK WITH BLACK STRIPE> will goto the 12v output on the relay do this with both harnesses
step 11. the 2 black wires on each fpdm pigtail will be tied into a ground, <what I do is combine all the grounds 2pigtails, 2 relay grounds into a single wire solder
them together with a larger gauge wire and run it to a single ground point.>
step 12. on your relays you will run a 12ga wire to the 12v in on your relay. Put a 15amp fuse in line tie these 2 wires together and solder them to the 8ga amp
harness power wire and then heat shrink.
step 13. HERES THE PART WHERE YOU NEED TO PAY ATTENTION -- take the amp bypass harness out of the bag...now plug 1 of the harnesses in to the
bypass plug you will notice that 1 of the wires does not have a wire directly across from it... we need to move the odd wire on the amp bypass plug to the correct
port that corresponds to the wire on the fpdm pigtail. BECAREFUL or you have to buy another one lol.
step 14. now with the wire in the right place plug the pigtail into the bypass plug again. Look for the light blue/orange stripe wire and find the wire on the bypass
plug that corresponds to it.... solder and heat shrink these 2 together
step 15. now find the wire that is directly across from the white/redstripe wire and solder these together <should be 3 wires total here>
step 16. now find the wire that corresponds to the dg/ye<also can be pink/black stripe> (large gauge wire) this wire will have to be soldered to 2 other wires and
ran to the switch on the relays....
step 17. cap all the rest of the wires off.
HARNESS IS NOW DONE......take 5 minutes and look over the harness double check your connections this isnt hard just look it over and it will make sense
here is a recap of what the wires on the pig tail does
black - ground
pink/black stripe or dg/ye - is your signal from pcm saying turn on we gonna go fast!!
white/red stripe - this gives the feedback to your pcm about duty cycle any good tuner will be datalogging this. Key word good tuner
light blue/ orange - this is a status output wire
grey/pink stripe or brown/pink stripe - this is the + for fuel pump
red/black stripe is your - for your fuel pump
colors for 03 harness. Most will have different color here is break down*****************
-grey/pink is the same as brown/pink
-dg/ye wire is the same as the larger gauge pink/black striped wire
*****************unhook battery**********************
step 1. go ahead and run your 8ga amp kit wire to the back from your battery. You will connect one end to your + battery terminal and mount a 30amp fuse as
close to the battery as possible.
step 2. unloom the 2 pigtails and clip off the extra part of the ground wire as it wont be needed.
step 3. clip the 2 wires woven together about 1-2" from the connector. <grey-pink stripe, red-black stripe> these power your fuel pumps.
step 4. now we will attach the 40 feet worth of wires to these two wires. Cut about 10 feet of red 12ga wire and attach to the grey-pink wire and 10feet of black
12ga wire to the red-blackstripe wire. <make sure you slide heat shrink on the cable>
step 5. solder these connections after you have soldered them move the heat shrink over and shrink them down. Now repeat this on 2nd harness with remaining
wiring.
step 6. take the two harnesses and tie the white-red striped wires together
step 7. take the light blue orange wire and clip it off about 4" from connector and put a butt cap on it ********ONLY ON 1 HARNESS******
step 8. take the other light blue orange wire and set it aside will be using this later to tie into the amp bypass harness kit
step 9. get your relays
step 10. your dg/ye wire <ALSO CAN BE PINK WITH BLACK STRIPE> will goto the 12v output on the relay do this with both harnesses
step 11. the 2 black wires on each fpdm pigtail will be tied into a ground, <what I do is combine all the grounds 2pigtails, 2 relay grounds into a single wire solder
them together with a larger gauge wire and run it to a single ground point.>
step 12. on your relays you will run a 12ga wire to the 12v in on your relay. Put a 15amp fuse in line tie these 2 wires together and solder them to the 8ga amp
harness power wire and then heat shrink.
step 13. HERES THE PART WHERE YOU NEED TO PAY ATTENTION -- take the amp bypass harness out of the bag...now plug 1 of the harnesses in to the
bypass plug you will notice that 1 of the wires does not have a wire directly across from it... we need to move the odd wire on the amp bypass plug to the correct
port that corresponds to the wire on the fpdm pigtail. BECAREFUL or you have to buy another one lol.
step 14. now with the wire in the right place plug the pigtail into the bypass plug again. Look for the light blue/orange stripe wire and find the wire on the bypass
plug that corresponds to it.... solder and heat shrink these 2 together
step 15. now find the wire that is directly across from the white/redstripe wire and solder these together <should be 3 wires total here>
step 16. now find the wire that corresponds to the dg/ye<also can be pink/black stripe> (large gauge wire) this wire will have to be soldered to 2 other wires and
ran to the switch on the relays....
step 17. cap all the rest of the wires off.
HARNESS IS NOW DONE......take 5 minutes and look over the harness double check your connections this isnt hard just look it over and it will make sense
here is a recap of what the wires on the pig tail does
black - ground
pink/black stripe or dg/ye - is your signal from pcm saying turn on we gonna go fast!!
white/red stripe - this gives the feedback to your pcm about duty cycle any good tuner will be datalogging this. Key word good tuner
light blue/ orange - this is a status output wire
grey/pink stripe or brown/pink stripe - this is the + for fuel pump
red/black stripe is your - for your fuel pump
You should have your harness made up at this point so lets get to installing the fpdm's and harness. Open trunk and remove paneling to get to the inner fender
on drivers side.
You will see the stock fpdm here, unplug it.
Find a creative way to mount your 2nd fpdm. I usually just hang them off of each other with a bolt and nut.
Now plug your harness into this fpdm and plug your 2 pigtails into the 2 fpdms.
Now take your grounds and find a clean spot and either bolt it down or screw it on the frame of the car.
Now take the 2 sets of wires (4 total) the black and red ones and pull those aside we are going to route those to the fuel pumps.
there are 2 ways you can go, you can route it under the spare tire and there is a piece of tape there that covers a hole and you can take it down through there.
This is easiest and most direct way to the pumps.
on drivers side.
You will see the stock fpdm here, unplug it.
Find a creative way to mount your 2nd fpdm. I usually just hang them off of each other with a bolt and nut.
Now plug your harness into this fpdm and plug your 2 pigtails into the 2 fpdms.
Now take your grounds and find a clean spot and either bolt it down or screw it on the frame of the car.
Now take the 2 sets of wires (4 total) the black and red ones and pull those aside we are going to route those to the fuel pumps.
there are 2 ways you can go, you can route it under the spare tire and there is a piece of tape there that covers a hole and you can take it down through there.
This is easiest and most direct way to the pumps.
You can also take the grommet out near the fpdm's and cut out the middle and run them down this way as well. This is the route i prefer just make sure 110% that
you steer clear of the exhaust when you come out this way.
you steer clear of the exhaust when you come out this way.
************MAKE SURE BATTERY IS UNHOOKED****************
Not gonna get to detailed on removing tank its straight forward 3 bolts in fuel door, 3 bolts to 2 straps that hold it and it lowers down
Lower fuel tank
alright assuming you have tank properly supported use your fuel line release tool and release the line from the hat - its a pain but it will come loose
now there is a harness attached to the fuel hat it has 2 plugs go ahead and disconnect these
remove the bolts holding the hat down and slowly lift it out BECAREFUL HERE you do not want to break the fuel level sending unit as its delicate and breaks easy.
Now set this aside and install your new forehat that you have assembled with gt 40 pumps. Assembly instructions for this can be found here Thanks to Fore
Precision works for these install directions. These require microsoft word to view!!!!
Now all you have to do is install your fittings and run your lines and your done! Install the 45degree fitting on the pushlock hose first then install it to the hate and
snake the 8an line up over the irs along the same route as the stock lines. Use zip ties and clamps to secure the lines along teh factory routing or any way you
find convenient. Re-install tank.
Double Check your connections...
Triple check your connections...
Hook battery back up.
Cycle the key on and off few times to repressurize the lines with fuel check for leaks.
now before cranking the car remember you no longer have a pprv, this acts as a check valve so if your car sits for a few days you need to prime the car by turning
the key forward then turning it off and then turning key back on before cranking. The pprv keeps fuel from flowing back in the tank with it gone the lines will tend to
drain back to tank thus requiring you to prime the lines.
Your now done!
Not gonna get to detailed on removing tank its straight forward 3 bolts in fuel door, 3 bolts to 2 straps that hold it and it lowers down
Lower fuel tank
alright assuming you have tank properly supported use your fuel line release tool and release the line from the hat - its a pain but it will come loose
now there is a harness attached to the fuel hat it has 2 plugs go ahead and disconnect these
remove the bolts holding the hat down and slowly lift it out BECAREFUL HERE you do not want to break the fuel level sending unit as its delicate and breaks easy.
Now set this aside and install your new forehat that you have assembled with gt 40 pumps. Assembly instructions for this can be found here Thanks to Fore
Precision works for these install directions. These require microsoft word to view!!!!
Now all you have to do is install your fittings and run your lines and your done! Install the 45degree fitting on the pushlock hose first then install it to the hate and
snake the 8an line up over the irs along the same route as the stock lines. Use zip ties and clamps to secure the lines along teh factory routing or any way you
find convenient. Re-install tank.
Double Check your connections...
Triple check your connections...
Hook battery back up.
Cycle the key on and off few times to repressurize the lines with fuel check for leaks.
now before cranking the car remember you no longer have a pprv, this acts as a check valve so if your car sits for a few days you need to prime the car by turning
the key forward then turning it off and then turning key back on before cranking. The pprv keeps fuel from flowing back in the tank with it gone the lines will tend to
drain back to tank thus requiring you to prime the lines.
Your now done!
| Installing the GT40 pumps |
SPECIAL THANKS TO THOSE WHO HELPED WITH GATHERING OF THIS INFO AND THOSE WHO CONTRIBUTED
-- ME lol
-- TruDynoSports LINK
-- Mjchip - maker of modified fpdms
-- James at RWTD
-- Modularpowerhouse.com LINK
-- Modularfords.com LINK
-- svtperformance.com LINK
-- foreprecision works LINK
The people who contributed information across the internet anonymously in the forms of posts, drawings, and simple provent facts. I have pulled together
collections of information from many sources if anyone's work I quoted and they would like to be listed in credits please contact me at droptop351@hotmail.com
and I will promptly add your name and give you the credit you deserve. I apologize to anyone who was left out of the credits
-- ME lol
-- TruDynoSports LINK
-- Mjchip - maker of modified fpdms
-- James at RWTD
-- Modularpowerhouse.com LINK
-- Modularfords.com LINK
-- svtperformance.com LINK
-- foreprecision works LINK
The people who contributed information across the internet anonymously in the forms of posts, drawings, and simple provent facts. I have pulled together
collections of information from many sources if anyone's work I quoted and they would like to be listed in credits please contact me at droptop351@hotmail.com
and I will promptly add your name and give you the credit you deserve. I apologize to anyone who was left out of the credits